Made to Measure vs Bespoke Suits: A Guide on Tailoring Jargon

When it comes to suiting up, there’s a world of jargon that can leave even the most style-savvy individuals scratching their heads. Terms like “bespoke” and “made-to-measure” often float around in discussions of high-end tailoring, but what do they actually mean?

Understanding these distinctions can be the difference between getting a suit that’s good and one that’s perfect.

In this guide, we’ll break down the differences between made-to-measure and bespoke suits, so you can make an informed decision for your next tailoring experience.

What is Made-to-Measure?

Made-to-measure (MTM) is a term used in tailoring to describe garments that are constructed based on pre-existing patterns that are then altered to fit the individual customer. Unlike off-the-rack clothing, which comes in standard sizes, made-to-measure offers a more personalized fit, but it’s not fully customized like bespoke tailoring.

How Does It Work?

Made-to-measure suits strike a balance between off-the-rack convenience and bespoke precision. Let’s take a closer look at the process involved.

Measurements and Fittings

The journey of a made-to-measure suit starts with a series of measurements taken by a tailor. These measurements are then used to adjust a pre-existing pattern. A typical made to measure suit tailor will take measurements of your chest, waist, hips, arms, and legs, among others. Since the suit is based on a standard template, the measurements are used to make adjustments to ensure a better fit than off-the-rack options.

Customization Options

Made-to-measure suits offer a fair degree of customization. While the core pattern is set, customers can choose from various options to make the suit their own. You might select the type of lapel, the number of buttons, pocket styles, and vent types. Some made-to-measure programs even offer additional customization, such as working buttonholes on the cuffs, pick stitching, and personalized monograms. However, the scope of customization is still somewhat limited compared to bespoke.

Fabric Selection

One of the key appeals of made-to-measure suits is the ability to choose from a wide range of fabrics. While not as extensive as bespoke options, the fabric selection in made-to-measure tailoring is still considerable. Whether you’re after classic wool, lightweight linen, or something with a bit more texture, made-to-measure allows you to pick a fabric that suits your style and the occasion.

Time Taken

Made-to-measure suits are generally quicker to produce than bespoke suits. Since the pattern already exists, and the changes are more about tweaking than creating from scratch, you can expect a made-to-measure suit to be ready in about 4 to 6 weeks. This makes it an ideal choice for those who need a suit relatively quickly but still want a better fit than ready-to-wear.

What is Bespoke Tailoring?

Bespoke tailoring represents the pinnacle of craftsmanship in the world of suits. The term “bespoke” itself originates from the word “bespeak,” meaning to order or arrange something in advance. In the context of suits, bespoke tailoring means a garment is completely custom-made from scratch, with every detail tailored to the customer’s specifications.

How Does It Work?

Bespoke tailoring is an intricate process that involves multiple stages and a high level of craftsmanship. Here’s how it typically works:

Measurements and Fittings

Unlike made-to-measure, bespoke suit tailoring starts with a blank canvas. The tailor takes a full set of measurements, which are far more detailed than those used in made-to-measure. Every aspect of your body’s shape and posture is considered, from shoulder slope to arm length, waist circumference, and more. This comprehensive measurement process ensures a perfect fit that’s unique to you.

But it doesn’t stop there. Bespoke suits require multiple fittings. After the initial measurements, a “baste” fitting is created. This is a rough version of the suit, put together using temporary stitching, allowing the tailor to make precise adjustments.

Depending on the complexity, you might go through two or three additional fittings before the suit is finished. Each fitting allows for refinements that bring the garment closer to perfection.

Customization Options

The level of customization in bespoke tailoring is unparalleled. Every detail of the suit is up to you. From the overall cut to the smallest design elements like button styles, lining patterns, and even the angle of the pocket flaps—everything can be tailored to your preference. Bespoke is about creating something unique, so the tailor works closely with you to bring your vision to life. Whether you want a suit for a wedding, business, or something entirely out of the ordinary, bespoke tailoring offers limitless possibilities.

Fabric Selection

When it comes to fabric, bespoke tailoring is all about variety and exclusivity. You have access to an extensive selection of fabrics, including rare and luxurious materials that are often not available in made-to-measure or off-the-rack options.

A custom tailor in NYC, for example, might offer fabrics from prestigious mills in England or Italy, with choices ranging from classic wools to cashmere, silk blends, and beyond. The fabric chosen is often a significant factor in the suit’s overall aesthetic and feel, making this step crucial.

Time Taken

The bespoke process is not a quick one. Creating a suit from scratch takes time, and the multiple fittings required extend the timeline further. On average, a bespoke suit can take anywhere from 8 to 12 weeks to complete. However, this time investment is reflected in the quality and fit of the final product. If you’re after a suit that is truly unique and perfectly fitted, the wait is well worth it.

Made-to-Measure vs Bespoke — A Comparison

So, how do made-to-measure and bespoke stack up against each other? Let’s break it down:

  1. Fit: Bespoke suits offer a perfect fit since the pattern is made specifically for your body. Made-to-measure suits, while offering a better fit than off-the-rack, still work within the confines of a pre-existing pattern, which may not accommodate all body types perfectly.
  2. Customization: Bespoke wins hands down when it comes to customization. Every aspect of the suit is customizable. Made-to-measure offers some customization, but it’s limited compared to bespoke.
  3. Fabric Selection: While both options offer high-quality fabrics, bespoke tailoring typically offers a wider and more exclusive range. Made-to-measure selections are usually extensive but not as varied as bespoke.
  4. Time: Made-to-measure is faster, usually taking 4 to 6 weeks, whereas bespoke can take up to 12 weeks due to the intricate process and multiple fittings involved.
  5. Cost: Bespoke suits are generally more expensive due to the time, labor, and materials involved. Made-to-measure is more affordable but still more costly than off-the-rack options.

Do You Need Bespoke or Made-to-Measure?

The choice between bespoke and made-to-measure depends on your priorities, budget, and the occasion. If you’re looking for something unique, with the perfect fit and limitless customization, and you’re willing to invest time and money, bespoke tailoring is the way to go. It’s ideal for those who have specific requirements, a particular vision, or simply a love for high-quality craftsmanship.

On the other hand, if you need a suit that fits well and offers some degree of personalization without the hefty price tag or long wait times, made-to-measure is a great alternative. It’s especially suitable for those who appreciate a good fit but don’t need the absolute perfection of bespoke tailoring.

How Wazins Can Help

Whether you’re looking for a custom tailor in NYC to create a one-of-a-kind bespoke suit or seeking a made-to-measure suit tailor for a quick yet personalized solution, Wazins is your go-to expert.

We provide access to top-notch tailors who specialize in everything from bespoke suit tailoring to made-to-measure shirts and made-to-measure jeans. From that perfect wedding suit to a sharp ensemble for a big business meeting, Wazins ensures you get the quality and fit you deserve.

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